Traditional veal in tuna sauce

Vitello tonnato Piedmontese style is a very popular starter for big occasions throughout the Monferrato hill region surrounding Alessandria. It is a feature of any local Delicatessen displayed in all its glory on a silver platter. Its yellow hue catches the eye. In a nutshell, it consists of thin succulent slices of veal covered by a mountain of mayonnaise and tuna sauce, tastefully decorated with anchovies, capers and slices of lemon. In the villages of the hilly Monferrato region, mayonnaise was used as a crafty way of making tough and strong-tasting fish and meat more creamy. In days gone by, however, vitello tonnato used to be prepared without mayonnaise in the following manner. Both veal and fassone (a beef variety found only in Piedmont) were braised in white wine along with the various vegetables and the resulting gravy was thickened up with finely-chopped tuna. This dish was served by slicing the veal rather thickly and spooning the lukewarm tuna gravy over it. It is considered to be a warm weather dish served both in Spring and Summer.