BUN BEN BON

This country inn on the outskirts of Nice is becoming increasingly popular. Its name says it all: "Bun Ben Bon" in dialect means "good and simple." So here we are, in the dining room facing the bar, and the ordering process begins with a few good wine requests, because here we are in the homeland of Barbera, or rather, Nizza, its superior version.

We begin with appetizers (€12), including a tasty veal topside marinated in raw salt with a cream of natural Gorgonzola, alongside a veal parcel in muslin sauce, and a classic: the composition of Nice cardoons with a fondue of Alpine Toma cheese. Also interesting are the Russian salad of fresh vegetables and the terracotta pot of baked local peppers with bagna cauda. For starters (€13), the potato gnocchi "alla forchetta" with rabbit ragù are excellent, as are the traditional agnolotti with Fassone beef reduction, the durum wheat tagliolini with chanterelle mushrooms and crispy pancetta, the chestnut pappardelle with Roccaverano cheese, and the sautéed tagliatelle with Nizza cardoons and bagna cauda. Or the Carnaroli risotto creamed with Castelmagno cheese and Barbera reduction. Among the main courses (€18), the veal tagliata with balsamic cabbage, the combination of fresh porcini mushrooms and lightly fried cod are all excellent choices. The artisanal cotechino with sautéed crau and the rosemary-wrapped Roccaverano cheese parcel are also worth a try. The desserts (€6) won't disappoint. Recommended are the nougat semifreddo, the traditional tiramisu, the classic Piedmontese bonet, and the unusual "non" sorbet with Toccasana Negro bitters, offered seasonally. A tasting menu is available for €40 plus drinks. Prices are approximate.